ASPECTOS DAS ONDAS OCEÂNICAS EM ÁREAS DE EROSÃO COSTEIRA. LITORAL DO ESPÍRITO SANTO, BRASIL
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.18055/Finis13499Abstract
ASPECTS OF OCEAN WAVES IN COASTAL EROSION SITES. ESPIRITO SANTO COAST, BRAZIL. The objective of this paper is to characterize the pattern and behavior of incident highest energy waves that reach the coast of Espírito Santo (ES), Brazil. Buoy data and shallow water wave simulations were used to identify this pattern. It was found that the waves of greater energy occur due to the approach of cyclonic systems that generate stormy conditions from the southwest. However, the coastline is almost entirely protected from these waves. The slight inflection of the swell waves to the south or southeast exposes different segments of the coast in the face of storms. In addition, the stable conditions associated with the action of the South Atlantic Subtropical Anticyclone generate the greatest energy for the coastline when the winds reach near gale (Beaufort 7). Finally, it is concluded that the greatest swell captured by reanalysis models or oceanic buoys occur from the southeast to the southwest quadrant (bad weather). However, the analysis of waves in the near shore zone reveals that the high wind conditions of "good weather" are the ones that direct the highest wave energy to the beach stations. Coastal defense projects should consider specific beach site wave information in order to succeed.
Downloads
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
-
The opinions expressed in the texts submitted to Finisterra are the sole responsibility of the authors.
-
Authors retain copyright and grant the journal the right of first publication, with the work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which allows others to share the work with acknowledgement of its authorship and initial publication in this journal.
-
Authors commit to following the “Submission Guidelines” available on the RCAAP platform.
-
Whenever the text requires changes based on suggestions from Scientific Reviewers and/or the Executive Editorial Board, authors agree to accept and implement these changes as requested. If there are changes the authors disagree with, appropriate justifications must be provided on a case-by-case basis.
-
Reproduction of copyrighted material has been previously authorised.
-
The texts are original, unpublished, and have not been submitted to other journals.
Copyright
It is the responsibility of the authors to obtain authorisation to publish any material subject to copyright.
Editing Rights
Editing rights belong to the Centre for Geographical Studies of the Institute of Geography and Spatial Planning, University of Lisbon.
The editing of a text submitted to Finisterra for publication implies that it is an original.
Publication implies acceptance of the submission guidelines and compliance with authors’ responsibilities.
Publication Rights
All publication rights belong to the Centre for Geographical Studies, as the publisher of Finisterra.
Licence URL: CC Attribution – Non-Commercial – No Derivatives (BY-NC-ND).
Digital Preservation Policy
Finisterra uses the Open Journal Systems (OJS 3.2.1.4), a free and open-source software for journal management and publication, developed and distributed by the Public Knowledge Project (PKP) under the GNU General Public License. PKP is a multi-university initiative that develops open-source software and conducts research to improve the quality and reach of scholarly publishing. OJS includes the PKP PN plugin, a means of digitally preserving journal content in the PKP Preservation Network (PKP PN), which ensures long-term access to OJS journal content. PKP enables OJS journal publishers to preserve content in a decentralised and distributed manner. This ensures that, in the event a journal ceases publication or goes offline, continued access to articles and issues remains available (long-term preservation).
For more information, visit: https://pkp.sfu.ca/ojs/