ASPECTOS DAS ONDAS OCEÂNICAS EM ÁREAS DE EROSÃO COSTEIRA. LITORAL DO ESPÍRITO SANTO, BRASIL

Abstract

ASPECTS OF OCEAN WAVES IN COASTAL EROSION SITES. ESPIRITO SANTO COAST, BRAZIL. The objective of this paper is to characterize the pattern and behavior of incident highest energy waves that reach the coast of Espírito Santo (ES), Brazil. Buoy data and shallow water wave simulations were used to identify this pattern. It was found that the waves of greater energy occur due to the approach of cyclonic systems that generate stormy conditions from the southwest. However, the coastline is almost entirely protected from these waves. The slight inflection of the swell waves to the south or southeast exposes different segments of the coast in the face of storms. In addition, the stable conditions associated with the action of the South Atlantic Subtropical Anticyclone generate the greatest energy for the coastline when the winds reach near gale (Beaufort 7). Finally, it is concluded that the greatest swell captured by reanalysis models or oceanic buoys occur from the southeast to the southwest quadrant (bad weather). However, the analysis of waves in the near shore zone reveals that the high wind conditions of "good weather" are the ones that direct the highest wave energy to the beach stations. Coastal defense projects should consider specific beach site wave information in order to succeed.